I just did a similar shaft as yours. Mine was on a 1014+2 Hesston haybine, it had splines that go into the hydraulic motor and then it drove the auger and reel. Mine wasn't worn down too bad, but if the guy welding it is carefull, it'll be just as straight as before. I had to weld up both bearing surfaces, so I welded a spot on one end, then a spot on the other, and just kept moving around, so the heat wasn't in one place to bend the shaft.
When I gave it to the lathe guy at work to turn, it turned out beautiful. He said it didn't have any run-out at all and was thouroughly impressed with my weld job. I've only been in the trade for a little over 5 years (he's got somewhere around 25 on a manual lathe), but I had to fix many shafts like that at my last job. If it's splined on the end, weld it up & turn it down. If not, just go with a new one that a shop can make cheaper than AGCO can get it.
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Today's Featured Article - Weldin Basics, Part 3 - by Curtis von Fange. Oxy-acetylene Welding - Part One In our series on welding we have taken a brief look at AC and DC arc welding along with basic techniques and safety equipment required for safe usage. Since our premise is to cover welding types that might best be used on a farm environment we have kept our overview purposefully simple and general. The second type of welding that this observer finds quite useful in
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