Everyone has given you good advice. I would start by saying get one with the following features-live hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, live or independant pto, power steering if you plan to do loader work. A utility tractor or small row crop tractor would suit your needs best. As others have stated , here are a few models in the 30 to 60 hp range -oldest first. Massey Ferguson -35,50,65,-135,150,165,175-235,245,255-231. Ford -600,800-601,801- 2000,3000,4000,5000-3600,4600,5600-3610,4610,5610,5900-3930,4630,5030. John Deere 1020,1520,1530,2630-2040,2240,2640-IH-300,350,404,424,464,574.Allis chalmers-D-15,D-17,160,170,175.If you are looking at newer tractors check out John Deere 5103,5203 or 5105,5205. I would try to buy something with dealer support reasonably close by and buy a fairly common tractor as parts are more readily avaliable. I have not listed any tracors with high "collector" value but tried to pick good working tractors.
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Today's Featured Article - A 1937 John Deere Unstuck - by Gary Hickman. Here is my story of how I got the pistons out of a 1937 JD B that the engine had been stuck for about 14 years: About 12 years ago my Dad gave me one of the tractors I ran as I was growing up on our farm in central Nebraska. The engine on this tractor, a 1937 John Deere "B", had been stuck for 2 years before he gave it to me. This last spring (1999) I hauled the tractor to our 2 acre lot in St. Libory Nebraska where it joined my antique machinery collection, at that time a 1929 Caterpillar T
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