As long as you bought the right sections for whatever bar you have- and yes- they are not universal- it doesn't matter if you are replacing one, ten, or all of them- the dimensions are the same. On the near end, the cutterhead- if the rivets are longer than ones used for the other sections- cut them off to have the same amount protruding above the bar as to how far the other rivets protrude. Then they hammer down (peen) the same. But bolts are a better option- usually have to use some higher holddown plates. Sickle tool to remove and reinstall rivets is a plus- just tighten the tool to the bar when punching out rivets-= Otherwise the punch likes to break. I always use an 8 inch pipe wrench to tighten down the tool- can't do it by hand without the punch breaking soon. It does not tolerate poor alignment or looseness.
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Today's Featured Article - My Ford Golden Jubilee - by Troy Estes. This article is about my '53 Ford Jubilee and a story that starts with taking the tractor to my brother's Starter/Alternator Rebuilding shop for a wiring fix. The generator was shot as well as all the wiring. I dropped off the tractor expecting a transformation from a 6 volt to a 12 volt system utilizing the original generator housing, and a total rewiring of the whole tractor. The front end center pin bushing was worn also so I ask that they replace it if they had time. Well, that’s wha
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1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
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