Re: OT: Barn Electric

Posted by MarkB_MI on November 18, 2006 at 06:30:44 from (64.31.11.150):

In Reply to: OT: Barn Electric posted by Kent in KC on November 17, 2006 at 07:50:11:

Your electrician did you a big disservice with this setup. As others have said, you do not have anywhere near 100 amp service with this setup. You'll be OK running lighting and a smaller power tools, but you will not be happy with your 110V welder and compressor; these both need a lot of current.

There are two problems with this setup: First, as others have said, the #2 aluminum is way too light. Second, the "local ground rod in lieu of four conductors" is not up to code. You need four conductors PLUS two local ground rods.

OK, what can you do to salvage this situation? If your trench is still open, I'd bury another #2 aluminum USE so you have four conductors per code. If it's closed, then go with your current plan. Two ground rods (per code) are better than one, however.

Now with regards to your desire for 220V, you already have it. I assume you're putting a 100 amp panel in your barn. It has two hot sides, each is 120 to neutral, but you get a total of 240 from hot to hot. So if you plug a 240V breaker in your panel, you have 240V.

To make the most of your marginal setup, you need to minimize the current in the neutral conductor. You do this in two ways: 1) use 240V equipment as much as possible, and 2) balance the loads on the two phases. If you can convert your compressor to 240V, by all means do so. It will cut the total current in half, while eliminating the voltage drop in the neutral conductor. Put your lighting on the opposite phase as your 120V outlets to help balance the loads. on each phase.

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