Re: John T,,

Posted by John T on September 22, 2006 at 10:56:24 from (66.244.90.5):

In Reply to: Re: John T,, posted by ChadS on September 22, 2006 at 10:08:17:

Chad, Thanks for the feedback, UNFORTUNATLEY now knowing you already have 400 amps worth of wire to that first service MOST of what I yakked about below isnt applicable BUT FORTUNATELY it now sounds like YES it ought to be feasible to simply use a 100 (or 125 if required but I seriously doubt thats needed) amp breaker to feed that furnace seperate so it dont have to be fed from that 100 amp household panel....... I would still use a 2 pole blade type 100 amp safety switch (fuzed or non fuzed) right at the furnace for disconenct n safety purposes. The one thing I CAN NOT tell you not being there is how to wire n sub feed any new furnace breaker off your 400 amp disconnect, that depends on just whats all there n how much physical rooms available, thats a good question for your utility guys when they are there, I was never comfortable using those feeder tap rules n exceptions grrrrrrrrrrrrr. Again, I would still oversize the 100 amp wiring since voltage drop or tripping current might be an issue, No. 1 copper having THWN insulation with not more then 3 conductors in a raceway in free air is good for at least 110 amps and it dont hurt to oversize the wire if theres any doubts.

As far as energy savings, its wasted energy to heat (I squared R losses) when theres heavy current and/or undersized wires so trying to balance the Phase A and B loads in all that mess and big wires can help to some extent. Im unsure if or how your utility may or may not penalize you for a poor power factor from big motor loads but if its an issue, they make power factor correction capacitors you know. The pure resistive furnace, however, is NOT a problem there.

Let us know

John T

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