Re: Best way to break in a rebiult motor

Posted by NC Wayne on November 27, 2004 at 22:01:59 from (205.188.117.7):

In Reply to: Best way to break in a rebiult motor posted by Bill from Seneca, IL on November 27, 2004 at 18:06:38:

I've built engines ranging from the big 1000+ CuIn Murphy diesels, to meduim sized 8V-92 Detroits,and CATs, to the smaller Yanmar and Perkins diesels, to small block Chevys and on down to single cylinder B&S lawnmower engines and have never had one come back. Be it with the rings not seated, etc from not being broke in properly or anything else for that matter. You can look in the service manuals, etc and each mfg has their own properly engineered, long, drawn out break in procedure, but from a field mechanics point of view it's all a bunch of nonsense. It may sound and work good in a controlled/shop environment, but not in the real world. The main thing I tell every customer, no matter what size engine they have, is not to let it idle under no load, that'll glaze the cylinder walls right off and then the rings will never seat. If you want to break it in hook up the impliment that gives it the biggest load, "pull 'er ears back and put 'er to work". A story that Dad always tells is when he worked at the A/C dealership back in the 70's they rebuilt the engine in a mans dozer. He then idled it around at half throttle when he got it back to the job, after being told not to. He then came back in within two weeks claiming warranty because it smoked and slobbered oil. Even though they shouldn't have done it because the guy didn't follow the break in instructions they bit the bullet and redid it for him. They honed the liners, reringed it, and then broke it in before it left. The blade was put into a huge dirt bank, the throttle was pulled back, and it set there in low gear and spinning the tracks and digging holes for the next 15 or 20 minutes. Dad said it left that time not smoking or slobbering oil and never came back. As for the oil and change interval I've always used regular 15W-40 Rotella and I tell the customer to try to catch it at about 40 hours and then use their standard change interval after that. In reality though as long as you have a good qualty filter it's not really that imperative that you change the oil so quick as long as you do the filter. Anything that gets into the engine, metal or otherwise, be it from break in or normal running is gonna get filtered out anyway so the oil isn't gonna be any cleaner if you put in new stuff than if you leave what's already in there in it and simply change the filter. The main thing is to not let the filter stop up and go into bypass and contaminate the system by not filtering it. I know there are those out there that may disagree with this, because discussions of oil types, change intervals, etc always bring out everybodies own experiences and opinions. The main thing is you can never argue with success, and if ten different people have success with ten different things then they must all be right to some degree or another. Just my .02

Follow Ups:

• by a/c do you mean allis chalmers? farmweld 17:18:24 11/28/04 (1)
  • Re: by a/c do you mean allis chalmers? NC Wayne 19:17:47 11/28/04 (0)

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