Re: Repair Marvel Schbler Carburetor MAIN NOZZLE

Posted by Pix + long post..Joe (Wa) on June 17, 2004 at 19:04:27 from (65.126.49.80):

In Reply to: Repair Marvel Schbler Carburetor MAIN NOZZLE posted by Ron on June 17, 2004 at 05:20:00:

Case Vac gas carb is the tsx-114, The tsx-253 is the kerosene carb. I have seen Vac's run well with both these carbs using gas. I don't know what the difference is but there will be some mixture adjustment, either main jet or perhaps the taper of the power needle. Many full carb kits come with two power needles with different tapers. Perhaps that is the difference in mixture adjustment.

The pix is a nozzle out of a tsx-114. This pix isn’t very clear but there are 3 orifices in the side. There are 2 threaded areas to keep the lower orifice feed separated from the 2 upper chamber orifices.

Yours is probably broken just above the upper thread. Try to turn it out in one piece if you can. The best method is a straight shank screw extractor that when tapped in forms a spline in the brass. Extractors that are tapered and grip by compression like an easy out don't work well. If nothing else try a torq head screwdriver.

It is best to heat the carb in an oven and alternate soaking with penetrate like PB blaster to break down the oxidation on the threads if it is real tight. Open flame heating is ok but I don't think it is as effective.

Drilling is the last resort. Like Bob said the main jet is just 1/8 - 3/16" below the end of the nozzle. Any contact with the drill can alter the metering function. Worse yet, if the screwdriver slot is damaged you may have to drill it out too. If you drill, try a left hand bit, probably won't back the nozzle out but worth a shot.

After drilling, you may be able to pry out the remaining threads with a dental pick or like. Access and visibility is very limited. If you have to drill out the main jet the threaded hole is a much smaller diameter.

The nozzle hex size is 3/8". When removing or installing a nozzle a deep socket is a poor tool unless you do this type of work frequently. The deep socket is too long, the drive is firmly seated in the square drive opening. That combination is too rigid and the length will increase any cant that can cause the nozzle to bend as well as turn. I use a shallow 3/8" drive Snap-on or SK 3/8" 6-point socket. The socket is placed over the nozzle on the hex and bottomed on the bowl body. The drive opening in the socket will be 1/8" - 3/16" above the nozzle top. That is plenty of depth to insert the driver and any cant will not be transmitted to the socket and thus the nozzle.

I have bought the tsx-114 nozzle using MS p/n 47-589. That p/n cross-refs to Case p/n B51826. Those are pretty old numbers, you may have to check with a carb shop.

Joe

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