Two things come to mind, the old regulator failed, and when you installed the new one you got a mounting screw in the wrong position. The one without the plastic insulating sleeve must be closest to the outer edge of the case. The ones with the insulating sleeves must be in the inboard holes. If you got the uninsulated screw where the diode trio connects, it may have blown the trio. An insulated screw with a damaged or missing insulator would have the same effect.
Normally the regulator should be wired so the #2 wire sees constant battery voltage, usually from the BAT stud on the alternator rear. The regulator #1 wire needs to have switched power as in your ignition switch. I have seen aftermarket regulators in the last 10 years that will not allow the regulator to Excite unless the #2 wire has battery voltage, check that wire for voltage.
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Today's Featured Article - My Ford Golden Jubilee - by Troy Estes. This article is about my '53 Ford Jubilee and a story that starts with taking the tractor to my brother's Starter/Alternator Rebuilding shop for a wiring fix. The generator was shot as well as all the wiring. I dropped off the tractor expecting a transformation from a 6 volt to a 12 volt system utilizing the original generator housing, and a total rewiring of the whole tractor. The front end center pin bushing was worn also so I ask that they replace it if they had time. Well, that’s wha
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