Two things come to mind, the old regulator failed, and when you installed the new one you got a mounting screw in the wrong position. The one without the plastic insulating sleeve must be closest to the outer edge of the case. The ones with the insulating sleeves must be in the inboard holes. If you got the uninsulated screw where the diode trio connects, it may have blown the trio. An insulated screw with a damaged or missing insulator would have the same effect.
Normally the regulator should be wired so the #2 wire sees constant battery voltage, usually from the BAT stud on the alternator rear. The regulator #1 wire needs to have switched power as in your ignition switch. I have seen aftermarket regulators in the last 10 years that will not allow the regulator to Excite unless the #2 wire has battery voltage, check that wire for voltage.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1951 Farmall H - by The Red (John Fritz). I have been a collector of Farmall tractors since 1990 when I first obtained part of the family farm in Eastern Indiana. My current collection includes a 1938 F20, 1945 H, 1946 H, and the recently purchased 1951 H. This article will focus on what I encountered and what I did to bring the 1951 NEAR DEATH Farmall H back to life.
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