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Re: Snow Plowing with Ford 2000
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Posted by Gerald on January 16, 1999 at 11:13:25:
In Reply to: Snow Plowing with Ford 2000 posted by Doug on January 14, 1999 at 06:46:55:
Unless you have a cliff you can push the accumulated snow over, the tractor and blade and you will run out of places to push the snow. You must have tire chains, but I'm no fan of chloride. Once it leaks it rusts everything it hits. New tires pull my plow well enough I left the chloride out when I last had a flat on my MF-135. Years ago, I tried an 8N and a blade (without chains) for moving snow. Generally it was slow and frustrating because I could only turn the blade backwards and make lunges at the snow. In this flat territory I ran out of places to push snow after the first half or 3/4 foot. I broke the frame of the blade from the impacts of those lunges. The 8N front wasn't heavy enough to allow using the blade angled. The blade would turn the front of the 8N right into the road ditch, every time. When the steering wheels don't turn the tractor, you use the individual rear wheel brakes. That's WHY they are independent. For steering and for stopping a wheel that has lost traction. In my experience, a blade is a poor way to move snow unless there isn't much snow. If there isn't much snow, I just drive my truck through it and go. A loader with a hydraulic bucket works better because it can act as a bulldozer in light snow, but when the bucket is full can dump the snow on TOP the pile or drift. You can't accomplish that with a blade. If there's room to not throw rocks through the neighbor's windows, a snow blower probably works better than a loader. But a loader is useful for summer projects. A foot of snow on 1000 feet of driveway may need more power than you have to get it done between snow storms. Gerald
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