more on the front tire. Assuming you have a 2 wheel drive I believe mine came with the 7.5-16 and I had constant flats. The woods 1020 loader bucket when heaped with dirt/rock would not stand up. Went to a 10-16 tri rib, it kicks the front end up, when these age out I'm going to a quad rib of the same with. I also did not have proper ballasting early on, I was under the impression the dealer that installed the loader I bought from them would handle reballasting. They didn't, down here on the gulf coast I'm using straight water in tubes all the way to the top of the wheel rim. Only run into trouble in soft ground or where I've been digging now. 2 wheel drives aren't the best loader tractors but better than not having one. I'm pretty sure they sold me the 1020 more so based on their margin, but maybe a 1027 from that era may work, but may have too much lift power. I'm happy with 1020. This loader has additional loader framing from the front bolster to the transmission bell, I believe. From what I have experienced. The force this loader puts on the tractor, I wouldn't t trust a loader without the extra framing on this tractor.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Allis-Chalmers WD45 (Gas Version) - by Staff. Beginning production in 1953, the WD45 had the same general look as the WD tractor which was produced earlier - but was much more powerful. This was due to the new 4-cylinder "Power Crater" gasoline engine with a 4 x 4-1/2 inch bore and stroke. Some people feel this was one of the most significant tractors offered by Allis-Chalmers in those days. Nothing in its weight or power class could match its performance. In 1954 they began offering the WD45 with the new "Snap-Coupler&quo
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