Yup, if you get your gearing right it'll put out the same as any other 50 HP engine. As you spotted, the difference will be that the Honda engine HP/torque curve is probably such that it makes its 50 HP when really wound up. If you had each engine running at their optimal RPM where they make 50 HP and geared them such that the final output was the same RPM, you'd have the same torque (minus some minor losses in the reduction efficiency).
The more concerning aspect for me would be the duty cycle each engine is built for (if you intend to work the tractor). A tractor engine is built to put out all of its 50 HP pretty much all day. Pull into a field for a day of hard plowing and it's going to be used to capacity non-stop.
A car/bike engine, on the other hand, seldom sees that kind of work. When cruising, it's using only a fraction of that 50 HP. Acceleration and really, really fast cruising speeds would be the only time that engine's going to be using all of its 50 HP. Imagine pulling a 1500# cargo trailer behind a 50 HP Honda bike and heading across the country with it. It would probably have the HP to pull it, but you'd be overheating and burning out the engine in no time if you ran like that constantly. It just wasn't built for it. The cooling capacity would probably be the most limiting concern.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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