Thank you to all who took time to opine. Forgive me for not getting into overall details of project but the question comes down to how much if any oil film does it take before clutch suffers more than can be tolerated. On the other hand I fear simply asking if oiling a new pressure plate at installation is a good or poor idea would make me look like a bigger fool than the way I chose. Since I'm unable to follow the consensus of doing the job in a few days as it's conventionally done,I'll apply oil then wipe away as much as possible without using solvent and trust it does the job. Part of reasoning behind this decision is in the 50s I witnessed many cars,trucks and tractors with oil soaked clutches from rear main leaks. If vehicle got to point it wouldn't pull,a short term solution was put the front bumper against a tree and slip clutch to burn oil off. Sure wish I had videos of that and a few other home remedies at the time. In my pea size brain it seems one of those tree pushing secissons burned off more oil than I would apply in this case. In hindsight I wounder if the county oiled some of those roads or if cars kept them oiled. Thanks again for participating ,now back to regular program.
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Today's Featured Article - Ford Part Number Trivia - by Forum Participants. "Replaced by" means the part was superseded. All of my part books date back to 1964 and New Holland have changed some part numbers. They usually put the old Ford part number on the package. I was suppressed when I looked up the part number of the auxiliary drive shaft because for some reason the part number went through a radical change and it lost its "Basic Part Number". Ford part numbers follow the following rules. Most part numbers are in three parts. The middle part is called the
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