Tractor tanks and gauges are not as refined as auto ones, so I have seen some act like that and some that are slower to swing as fuel sloshes around in the tank. The sender likely has some wear and is looser in the joints and pivot than when it was new, which could be part of the issue. You need to check the sender with an ohmmeter to know what it is really doing. And it is easiest to do that with it out of the tank. Simple description of what is inside the tank: The float arm moves a contact across a resistor coil, so the resistance between the gauge and ground changes as the arm moves from empty to full which makes the gauge arm move. A new sending unit might be steadier. Gauges and senders must match the ohm ranges so, if you decide to get one you need to get the right one for your tractor or it will not register correctly.
This post was edited by Jim.ME on 11/02/2023 at 04:08 pm.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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