Have not been around an Oliver plow such as yours, but it shouldn't make a difference. you did not say if that was a 3/14 or 3/16 plow. On Case CHT, GT or A series plows for a 3-16 plow wheels should be set at 60 from inside to inside or 30 from inside of tire to center of drawbar. 56 on a 3-14 plow. John Deere manuals use a formula which equates to the total width of cut, divided by 2 plus 1/4 of the width of 1 bottom. so on a 3-16 it would be 3 x 16 = 48 / 2 = 24+4= 28. That would be the attachment point of the drawbar on the plow. They then say that if the tractor wheel is set at 30 you would take 30-28 =2. Then 2 divided by 3 = .666 and subtract that from 30 which means the drawbar should be set at 29.3 form the inside of tire. Use a string from the center moldboard of 3 bottom plow, measure in from the landside 4 on a 16 or 3.5 on 14 and attach sting to that point. Vertical line of draft is 1/2 of the depth of cut, so if plowing 6 measure up 3 from share for string attachment point. pull that sting to the front drawbar pull pin on tractor, and then align the plow hitch and tractor drawbar along that line. John Deere manuals are available to read for free on their website. Just look up a 666, 777, 3100 or 3200 and its all there.
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Today's Featured Article - Fabricating Sidesheets - by Chris Pratt. The easiest and best first-time project for wanna-be sheet-metal workers like myself is flat or nearly flat metal cut and drilled to be a tractor's sidesheet. A sidesheet is sheetmetal to cover either the engine as in the case of early Oliver's, Massey-Harris' and many crawlers or the wiring and electrical components as in the case of the Massey-Harris Pony, Allis Chalmers' D Series (D-14, D-15, D-12, D-10, D-17, and D-19). The need for fabricating becomes obvious when you go to buy any of these
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