Bfinney, In addition to what I wrote earlier... If you are going to have a loader on the tractor then having crisp steering is not so important. Loaders make any tractor kind of an ungainly beast anyway. I also have a 3600 and there is little to compare the two. A 4400 is built on the 4000 chassis so will be heavier, longer, have more HP and much better brakes. They are built to wear a loader whereas a 3600 is a lighter, more nimble, less loader capable machine. I don't need a loader. I wanted a tractor that was short and low like a 3600 but with the features and grunt of a 4000 yet with crisp steering - for mowing and work in my woods. Thus my foray into industrial models. And tightening up the worn pins and linkages wasn't so bad. I used a carbide drill to drill the little link plates to a slightly larger metric size and used hardened metric pins - all off the shelf stuff. For loader work I would take a 4400 over a 3000/3600 hands down. Lastly, you stated that to drop the pan on your MF 30B you need to split the tractor. Well, sad but true, that is pretty much the case with a 4400 too. Not between the engine and transmission but the front axle has to drop down and the front bolster has to slide forward about 3'' to do it. I suspect some sort of a split is neccessary on most brands of industrial tractors but only know my Fords.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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