Bfinney, In addition to what I wrote earlier... If you are going to have a loader on the tractor then having crisp steering is not so important. Loaders make any tractor kind of an ungainly beast anyway. I also have a 3600 and there is little to compare the two. A 4400 is built on the 4000 chassis so will be heavier, longer, have more HP and much better brakes. They are built to wear a loader whereas a 3600 is a lighter, more nimble, less loader capable machine. I don't need a loader. I wanted a tractor that was short and low like a 3600 but with the features and grunt of a 4000 yet with crisp steering - for mowing and work in my woods. Thus my foray into industrial models. And tightening up the worn pins and linkages wasn't so bad. I used a carbide drill to drill the little link plates to a slightly larger metric size and used hardened metric pins - all off the shelf stuff. For loader work I would take a 4400 over a 3000/3600 hands down. Lastly, you stated that to drop the pan on your MF 30B you need to split the tractor. Well, sad but true, that is pretty much the case with a 4400 too. Not between the engine and transmission but the front axle has to drop down and the front bolster has to slide forward about 3'' to do it. I suspect some sort of a split is neccessary on most brands of industrial tractors but only know my Fords.
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Today's Featured Article - It Can't Be Done! - A Tractor Story - by Neil Campbell. I'll never forget the time back when I was a boy baling hay on our Farm in Big Rapid, Michigan. The most memorable event that took place was a trip up the steepest incline on the farm pulling an old New-Idea baler with a pony-motor for power and a haywagon. I had just talked my Dad into buying an old John Deere B with 6-speeds ahead and I was real proud of it, except it was a little smaller than the Case tractor that we normally
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