There are differences. First is the polarity of the coil. The coils negative small terminal should connect to the distributor, matching the polarity of the alternator. The amp gauge should read negative when it is not running and the lights are switched on, and positive when the engine is running just after starting. Then it should drift back toward zero at the battery is fully charged. A true 12v coil will be wound internally to run at 14+ volts with no ceramic ballast resistor. A coil requiring a resistor will be labeled as such. a coil requiring a resistor will have an ohm reading of 1.2 to 1.4 ohms. a true 12v coil will measure in the 3 to 4 ohm region. These are measured with one wire disconnected from the small terminal, and measured across those small terminals. The alternator brand and number are needed to determine what needs to be wired to which terminals, so we need to know that, a picture will help (see the bottom of the screen to load an image. Wire sizes from 6 volt are good to go). If replaced, use the same gauge wire. Use terminals that solder on, and then use shrink tubing to seal that connection. They are simple and a diagram should be in your repair manual (YT sells them). Modify it as described above. Lamps should be changed to 12v equivalent, or LED for headlights. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Allis-Chalmers WD45 (Gas Version) - by Staff. Beginning production in 1953, the WD45 had the same general look as the WD tractor which was produced earlier - but was much more powerful. This was due to the new 4-cylinder "Power Crater" gasoline engine with a 4 x 4-1/2 inch bore and stroke. Some people feel this was one of the most significant tractors offered by Allis-Chalmers in those days. Nothing in its weight or power class could match its performance. In 1954 they began offering the WD45 with the new "Snap-Coupler&quo
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