On this 2006 model, the pedal adjusting linkage consists of several metal rods joined at directional pivot points. The adjustment is made via a turnbuckle situated directly adjacent to the pedal. Now that Harry mentioned he's never had one he couldn't make work within the available adjustment range, I'm going to first fully disassemble my turnbuckle to clean the threads and oil it good before resorting to raising the clutch levers. My turnbuckle feels like it's bottoming out at a certain point, but only after providing almost enough to reach the levers (but not depress the levers). Perhaps what I'm feeling when that turnbuckle binds is due to damaged threads preventing further movement. But even so, I'll still need to find quite a bit more travel after I clean it up. I'll find out.
The PTO clutch does use a cable with a fair amount of leeway in both directions so I've got options. Doing the math from split flange to bearing and split flange to the PTO levers, I'll need to move the PTO bearing back 3/16 to avoid having the PTO bearing riding on the levers. While the formerly mentioned spring utilized on the PTO bearing carrier implies that the PTO bearing should not be riding the levers, I wanted to verify this explicitly with Harry or others with experience.
To paraphrase so far: By design, we've established that the Engine Clutch bearing is expected to ride the levers. If the PTO bearing is confirmed to be expected to NOT contact the levers when the PTO is NOT engaged, then how much clearance should I plan for? I'd presume perhaps 1/8.
Responding to the other replies:
Jim.ME: No, there were no wedges requiring removal, but I understand why you brought this up. These clutch kits are set up with the pilot bearing/multi spline tool from the factory, effectively creating a perfectly centered disc for the installer. As this dual clutch setup consists of a shaft within a shaft, I found it easiest to mark this shaft with a sharpie at the point where the shaft would be fully installed into the flywheel pilot bearing. This assured that there were no hangups within the clutch kit as I moved the front half back to mate with the rear. The downside, as I saw it, was that I had to move the front half at least as far as the length of that removable PTO shaft in order to gain the freedom of movement which would allow me to easily manipulate that shaft through the clutch splines and into the pilot bearing. My sharpie mark then confirmed it was in full.
Caterpillar guy: In this case, the replacement unit was new. Flywheel remains original but still looks great, with no signs of wear or burn marks. Also no evidence of having previously been turned down. Still had the .020 raised step.
Showcrop: Thanks for confirming Harry's points. Word to the wise appears to be to always measure everything on both sides of the split before moving it all back together. The factory rep told me to bolt it up as is and it will work. Had I done that, I'd be looking at a full re-splitting. The feedback from everyone has reduced a great amount of worry over these important adjustments. Not all of these details are available in the official repair manuals, which I have. Thanks to everyone for your help so far. VERY much appreciated.
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