The old Wade t-valves seem to be obsolete. Maybe you can still get gaskets and springs. The new style for most all manufacturers is the top screw-down arrangement which is far easier to repair and seal. For the old Wade pop-up seal t-valves, there was probably a tool to compress the spring then remove the nuts and spring keeper and then remove the valve disc from the stem and then the spring. By the looks of mine, you may have to heat the nuts a bit for removal although if the stem is brass, they should let go pretty easily. Another thing is that on a 6 X 6 valve, the plate is about 6 as are the mainline openings so you would probably have to remove the mainline gaskets for clearance. I hope this helps.
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Today's Featured Article - My Ford Golden Jubilee - by Troy Estes. This article is about my '53 Ford Jubilee and a story that starts with taking the tractor to my brother's Starter/Alternator Rebuilding shop for a wiring fix. The generator was shot as well as all the wiring. I dropped off the tractor expecting a transformation from a 6 volt to a 12 volt system utilizing the original generator housing, and a total rewiring of the whole tractor. The front end center pin bushing was worn also so I ask that they replace it if they had time. Well, that’s wha
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