Was kind of thinking the same thing. The backside of the lugs are not very thick. And the rim they are bolted to is sure not very wide either.
I have driven tractors on steel, but not an Oliver. Always wondered how bad this style of Oliver wheel sunk into to the ground. Would likely have to get off of the sod, and into mud of soft dirt (worked ground) to find out.
Skeleton steel is bad about sinking in anyways. But boy, there really isn't much to keep these from just going right on down. Deere lugs for example, had a really thick backside. IHC lugs for the letter series were bolted on in staggered pairs (had meat in between lugs that met up with the ground surface). Even in between the paired lugs, was a good 2 inch thick rim.
About the only thing stopping these is the lugs that are about the 4th or 5th one up from the bottom that are starting to hit the ground more horizontally. And they'll only slow the sinking then if you have already sank in that far.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning Up Your Tractor: The Battery - by Curtis Von Fange. Buried somewhere beneath the sheetmetal, under the gas tank, or stuffed in front of the radiator is the battery. This elusive and neglected component of the tractor is the hardest to get to when it is dead and in need of a jump. But usually, the storage battery is a storehouse of electrical energy waiting to be released a the flick of a switch. A few maintenance tips and periodic cleaning will keep it charged for the duration of its life span. The battery is made up of a number of lead bas
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