Okay you straightened me out there. Get rough with it! How big of a breaker bar you got? Will a socket fit on there? Looks kind of close the way that chain tab is bent to raise up near it. First get a big hammer like a 2 pounder, smack the head of the bolt as hard as you can as if you want to drive it in. If you have a sledge hammer hold it against the lift arm on the opposite side as a counter weight. You are just trying to move it the slightest bit to break the rust bond. After that get some penetrating oil on there and give it all you got with your breaker bar I would say it should twist loose. If need be put the nut back on and screw it even with the end of the bolt. Get something to set against the nut to protect it from direct hammer blows like a steel plate or an old nut clamped in a vise-grip, then try to pound it out. Heat would be a last resort. Most people do not do it but an occasional drop or two of oil on all those moving joints on a 3 point that are not greaseable is NOT the worst idea ever.
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Today's Featured Article - Fabricating Sidesheets - by Chris Pratt. The easiest and best first-time project for wanna-be sheet-metal workers like myself is flat or nearly flat metal cut and drilled to be a tractor's sidesheet. A sidesheet is sheetmetal to cover either the engine as in the case of early Oliver's, Massey-Harris' and many crawlers or the wiring and electrical components as in the case of the Massey-Harris Pony, Allis Chalmers' D Series (D-14, D-15, D-12, D-10, D-17, and D-19). The need for fabricating becomes obvious when you go to buy any of these
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