What Geo-TH,In is talking about is when using a resistor in the coil circuit there is a way to provide the coil with full 12 power during cranking and then run on reduced voltage after it has started.
Tractors may have used the ignition switch or a place on the solenoid to bypass ballast.
My Jubilee has no such place so I used a diode as in the picture below. The picture below is self explanatory. The cathode, white band, goes to the + on the coil. The anode goes to the starter cable.
My tractor has no issues starting after I installed the diode.
My Farmall M has been changed to 12 volts and uses a resistor in the coil circuit. It has ran and started fine without that extra ..step up.. circuit for 8 years or so.
If your ballast is too small, you may not need to bypass the ballast. If your ballast is too small you may burn points faster than I do. If your cranking voltage drops too much, you need to bypass ballast or it won't start.
All cars, when I was a kid, the ballast resistor was bypassed using the ignition switch. Why people on YT think they don't need one is beyond me. Someplace I read the old 6v Ford N's had ballast and bypassed them. This may or may not be true.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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