I've seen similar setup's on old Clark lifts, '60-70's era, but doubtful that will get you far unless you find a really helpful counterman.
The rod seal can be replaced, it's under the snap ring. It can be carefully pried out without disassembling the cylinder.
Is the pump making pressure? You can test it by clamping the pressure line with rag padded vise grips. It should load the engine and whine if it's working. Be sure you are on the pressure line, not the return line!
You should see some movement of the ball inside the housing, that is the directional valve. If the internal seal is bad, the cylinder will have to be cut open, repaired and welded back together. Not easy but doable. Seals will be available at a seal supply.
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