I've seen similar setup's on old Clark lifts, '60-70's era, but doubtful that will get you far unless you find a really helpful counterman.
The rod seal can be replaced, it's under the snap ring. It can be carefully pried out without disassembling the cylinder.
Is the pump making pressure? You can test it by clamping the pressure line with rag padded vise grips. It should load the engine and whine if it's working. Be sure you are on the pressure line, not the return line!
You should see some movement of the ball inside the housing, that is the directional valve. If the internal seal is bad, the cylinder will have to be cut open, repaired and welded back together. Not easy but doable. Seals will be available at a seal supply.
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let�s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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