A 55 gallon steel barrel converted to a 3 point counterweight works great. When fabricating prior to filling with concrete, run the 'drawbar' for the lower links through the front third of the barrel, not the center. This allows for the tractor's drawbar to remain in the correct fore and aft position for proper PTO work. A modest additional benefit is that your weight is slightly farther away from the tractor for more effective counterweight. Measure the distance from the lower link to the ground when in the lowest position and cut the holes in the steel barrel accordingly. Mine was used on two different tractors with different lower link pins to ground measurements. I ended up modifying my barrels' lower links as well as constructing a wooden platform for the counterweight barrel storage.In the fabrication I added some arms to allow for mounting of more suitcase weights, if and when needed. Also add a hitch out the back of the barrel for pulling wagons, etc. without removing the barrel from the 3 point hitch. Leave the concrete in the barrel down several inches from the top so that chains, hitch pins, etc. have a place to ride.
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Today's Featured Article - What Oil Should I Use? - by Francis Robinson. I keep seein this question pop up over and over again in discussion groups all over the web. As with many things there are often several right answers and a few wrong ones. Some purist I'm sure will disagree to no end with what I will tell you but most of us out here in the real world don't really care do we ? Some of them only bring their noses down out of the air long enough to look down them anyway. If you are like me you are only doing this old tractor stuff because you enjoy it. You
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