No sense wasting money on panther pizz. As that all it is a waste of money. Dont need to remove studs either. As I said make sure h got round hard wood the size of the bore. Even if you have to cut a tree down. Then u cut it to make sure u are just above the studs. Then u hammer on that block with a post mall. The post mall is pretty much the size of them pistons. Works way better than a sledge hammer pounding on wood with only like a 3 inch head. All that does is beat the wood up. I have removed many pistons that are a lot harder than this one u have. Have u sanded all the rust out yet ? Follow advice for results that works. U need to clean up that bore as good as u can. So when the piston moves the oil has a chance to seep in. Plus it only takes a small amount of oil. Cause when u hit that block all the oil will come flying out at you. Its a time consuming thing and also have air handy do u can keep blowing the rust out before relubing the cylinder. Just from that picture of that piston I can have it out with only a few smacks. Plus on a john Deere the bottom of the cyl. Is where the water sits not like in a vertical cylinder. Making it lots easier to hammer out. And a 12 lb hammer is too small. My findings my advise from experience. Next post u better have that piston out.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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