Posted by redforlife on January 11, 2023 at 07:20:47 from (174.213.211.68):
In Reply to: Sickle sections posted by oliverkid on January 10, 2023 at 16:18:24:
I use top serrated (smooth on the bottom) sickle sections. You can buy under serrated or serrated on both top and bottom, but I just use the top serrated. I have my own theory that the top serrated work better.
The guards are as equally important as the sickle sections. If the guard is worn downward, it needs replaced. If the cutting edges of the guards are rounded, they need to be ground back to a sharp square edge, or replaced. Some guards have a jagged type cutting edge (not smooth). You can't really touch those kind of guards up with a grinder. If you have those kind of guards, replacing them is about all you can do if they get rounded.
Should be wear plates both on top and bottom of the sickle along the bar. The top being a hold down plate, with a under backside wear plate underneath. If these are wore out, they need to be replaced. The new style hold downs may of had a bolt you could draw down as the hold down wore out. But this was just to add a little life to the hold down. Once hold down wore out far enough, it still needed to be replaced.
If there is some gimmick out there that suggests that serrated sections are self sharpening, I am not a believer in that. But I am a believer in them having a tougher cutting edge, and holding thier sharpness longer than a smooth section (if you stay out of the rocks and wire that is).
Combine sickle sections all seem to be a little different than mower sections. For one thing, they seem to be a touch wider. And for another thing, they seem to all be a little shorter (from front to back). They don't stick out as far into the guard. And yes, I have seen them have a more courser serration on them. But I wouldn't make the change just for the courser serration, and the fact that you found some or have some. I'm afraid the wider dimension and lesser length from front to back will hurt you more than the style of serration will help ya.
Combines are designed to cut fully matured (dying or dead) crops. Crops that are relatively easy to cut with a sickle. Mowers on the other hand, are designed to cut grasses that are as green as a gourd, and in no way dead and very much alive and green. Just because you took your combine header through a patch of dead crab grass when cutting your soybeans, doesn't mean your going to go through tough mowing grass hay with the same sickle set up. And in July versus October.
You can try it if you want, but I don't think you will be happy with the results. Especially if you are having troubles already.
For what it's worth, you can mow some types of hay such as alfalfa in the middle of the night and during the rain with a mower in good shape. But take the same mower into prairie hay (especially with wire grass in it), and you are only going to be able to mow it in the heat of the day with the sun shining. Any least bit of due or toughness is going to shut you down. Some types of hay are just not going to be able to be mowed in evening or morning hours. Just no other way around it.
A disc mower might get you through anything no matter what the time of day or night. I don't know. I can't answer that, as I don't have a disc mower.
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