Some miscellaneous thoughts: - Some guys complain because cause they only got 75 years out of a set of factory rims due to calcium.
- Rim maintenance is like oil changes - a pay me now or pay me MORE later deal.
- A tractor without added ballast can NOT put its full horsepower to the ground. If you are just going to fart around and use it for parades no ballast is okay. If you plan to actually do some usefull work with it you need added weight.
- A properly ballasted tractor is a more stable platform. It will not tip or roll as easily as an unballasted tractor will.
- If you take care of those rims now you will get many more years of good service out of them. Flats not withstanding.
- It is not that big of a job to repair a set of rims. Get them sand blasted, repair any rust through - even if the patches aren't that pretty - then brush on a coat of rustoleum primer and a couple coats of paint. That will make them last for many more years.
- Calcium Chloride is still the best bang for your buck when it comes to adding weight.
- By the way, those 3 cylinder Ford 4000s are outstanding old tractors.
- Here's one of a pair of rims from my own Ford 4000. I did as I suggested above. Then Of Course I put the calcium back in.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
... [Read Article]
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