I am going to add two things. 1. Unless the kit specifically says that the alternator you are using or is supplied with the kit is set up for a ..positive ground.. that you tractor was originally you must convert the tractor to a negative ground system. That means that the cable to the battery that connects to the frame or engine must connect to the negative battery post. This will also require that all the wires on both terminals of your ammeter be switched from side to side. And the power wire to the coil were you are placing your resistor with now connect to the positive or + terminal of your coil. The wire from the distributor will connect to the coil negative terminal. If you do not change the battery polarity you will immediately damage your new alternator when you connect the battery. 2. Are you saying they did not supply a wiring diagram with the kit? If they did not I would seriously suggest you contact them so you can obtain one. Or refer to the one in the attached information from YT. You will just disregard the wires shown going to the 1 and 2 terminal on the alternator which includes the warning lamp, you will not have one.
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let�s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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