Pull tank and braze it will be the best fix for the long haul on it. All the goo's glues and foolishness will come back to bite you with it on the bottom. The weight of the fuel and vibration will just crack it open again. It could be welded also but harder to do and the brazing it will flow into and on the steel well. If it does not flow like solder it is not sticking. It must be clean and free from fuel. It can be brazed while upside down and empty. No it will not explode or any of that nonsense if you start and don't stop till you are done. I did the fuel tank on the combine last year like this.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Lead Substitutes - by Mike Schordine. Lead was oriinally added to gasoline as an upper cylinder lubricant. It lubes the valves and seats. If you rebuild the motor, you could use hardened seats and valves, and unleaded fuel. But if your old tractor runs good, a simple lead substitute added to the gas is a perfectly reasonable solution. And, if you are like me, your tractor is under cover, but it sits outside. So with every temperature change, the humidity in the air collects in the fuel tank, in the form of water.
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