I am going to say your meter is probably not giving you an accurate reading in that range, what kind of meter is it? Two others as well as myself have suggested to test the power on the wire coming out of the distributor for power when points are open and no power ..grounded.. when points close. In this case if you have a 6 volt system and you show no power at the coil from the switch with the switch on I would suggest a hot wire from the ..non-grounded.. battery post to the coil. I state it this way because I am not sure if your tractor is negative or positive ground. Now do the power test on the distributor wire, If that is good then check for spark out of the coil wire then the spark at at least one of the plug wire if good then try to start it. If no start fix your fuel system which may have been the problem all along. Not sure at what point the switch was replaced and why. Also you say ..What are the wires coming off the distributor that goes to the coil I had to put another washer in between because the other one was dry rotted. Does anybody follow what I'm trying to do. LOL??.. not really sure what that means. The wire is a 14 or 16ga nothing special. I am guessing the eyelet came of the end and the washer you are adding is just to clamp down the braided wire. That is fine if it is a solid connection, but should be fixed in the future for reliability.
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Today's Featured Article - Ford Part Number Trivia - by Forum Participants. "Replaced by" means the part was superseded. All of my part books date back to 1964 and New Holland have changed some part numbers. They usually put the old Ford part number on the package. I was suppressed when I looked up the part number of the auxiliary drive shaft because for some reason the part number went through a radical change and it lost its "Basic Part Number". Ford part numbers follow the following rules. Most part numbers are in three parts. The middle part is called the
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