There are several things that can cause what you describe.
The most common is the clutch disc is worn. When new, the disc has grooves machined in the face of the lining. The purpose of the grooves is to serve as a vacuum break to keep the disc from 'sticking' to the flywheel or pressure plate when released.
Also, if the clutch is oil soaked it gets sticky, especially in cold weather, and is further aggravated if the vacuum break grooves are worn away. If you end up replacing the clutch, be sure to replace the transmission input shaft seal, super easy while you are in there. That seal is more likely to put oil on the clutch than the engine seal.
Another cause is the disc spline binding on the input shaft. Sometimes the shaft gets a grove worn where the disc runs. If worn it will need some dressing with a grinder to remove the edges of the groove.
And a failing pilot bearing will cause the engine to continue to apply force to the input shaft even if the clutch is fully released. The pilot bearing should always be replaced when the clutch is serviced.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Smells - by Curtis Von Fange. We are continuing our series on learning to talk the language of our tractor. Since we can’t actually talk to our tractors, though some of the older sect of farmers might disagree, we use our five physical senses to observe and construe what our iron age friends are trying to tell us. We have already talked about some of the colors the unit might leave as clues to its well-being. Now we are going to use our noses to diagnose particular smells. ELECTRICAL SMELLS
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