Hi, I'm Hyster fleet mechanic.Normally you don't need to pull the counter weight.About what year is that 120?Generally speaking you want to get the truck off the ground about two feet,make sure it's blocked safely.Pull floorboards and seat/hood assembly.Basically straight forward from there...much the same as pulling a 4.3 from a car or truck.Depending on year there might be a driveshaft mounted to front of crank that drives hydraulic pump but again pretty straight forward.Matter of unhooking battery,exhaust,wiring,hoses,drain coolant etc...if it runs on propane be carefull unhooking fuel line chances are it'll be under pressure.Engine to trans or trans adapter bolts and either four or six torque converter bolts.Over head crane works best for pulling engine but a cherry picker will work.If it has rops then you can work around and thru it.If cab remove doors or tie them back.Can pull engine hanging a come along from rops or around cab roof and then fly the load out either side of truck.Here in my shop can have engine out in about six hours working by myself.Hope this helps. Paul
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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