Very simple test, with it warmed up, ignition off and engine still running, pull the coil wire and see if it stops the running.
If it continues to run, then the problem is not electrical.
Ignition timing has nothing to do with run-on other than changing the idle speed. Setting the idle as low as practical and being ready to kill it with the clutch is about the only option.
Looking at the wiring diagram, it appears the resistor on the light switch is for dimming the instrument lights and should only be wired to the instrument lights. If it is getting excessively hot there may be something wired to it that should not be, but it is normal for a resistor under load to get hot.
As long as the battery is charging, is not discharging when shut off, it appears to look like everything is normal.
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Today's Featured Article - My Ford Golden Jubilee - by Troy Estes. This article is about my '53 Ford Jubilee and a story that starts with taking the tractor to my brother's Starter/Alternator Rebuilding shop for a wiring fix. The generator was shot as well as all the wiring. I dropped off the tractor expecting a transformation from a 6 volt to a 12 volt system utilizing the original generator housing, and a total rewiring of the whole tractor. The front end center pin bushing was worn also so I ask that they replace it if they had time. Well, that’s wha
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