As pointed out, a test light is needed. An M Farmall will naturally stop with the points closed. If you replaced the points trying to fix it, did you turn the engine to the high point on the distributor cam, then adjust to .020 inches? New points have a preservative film on them that needs to be taken off for them to work. Finger nail polish remover, or lacquer thinner on a Q-tip works. Then a folded dollar to get the fuzz out. With the battery charged, and the points closed, spark can be generated in the coil wire (position the wire as noted below). With the cap off, turn on the ignition, use a plastic handled screw driver to open the points with the screw driver. A small primary spark should be seen at the points. A larger spark should be from the coil wire If no small spark, you may have accidently grounded the pass through where the small wire goes to the distributor from the coil. If this is the case, the wire connection at the distributor can be taken off that pass through and brushed against the distributor body. if no small spark there, you need the test light to discover where the connection or wire has failed. Starting at the power to the ignition switch from the amp meter, and following the power to the switch then to the coil and from coil to distributor. Let us know what you find. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let�s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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