If its a part I may not use for years I let PH dry when I need the part I scuff it with a scotch brite pad. If I am going to paint the part soon I flush it off with water before it has a chance to dry. I mostly use it to get a clean oil free surface @ 100% this works especially well on new metal. I have cut PH when I am running low it cleans just as well as 100%.
If I am treating rust I use Extend are Loctite SF 754 apply and let dry. I scuff when I paint the part, Youtube it.
Remember neither are epoxy primer friendly scuff are not epoxy will not bond well to them. The only way I have seen to get either off is to apply another coat to dissolve it.
For metal prep I am going to paint soon cut PH 50% flush with water I like to get a dusty residue on the surface not a hard polymer surface. The best metal prep is from a automotive paint store its exspensive... : (
For heavy rust Extend scuff a little before paint.
If using any body filler it needs a clean rust free bare metal surface to bond to.
Using your cheap paint I doubt you will have an issue with adhesion BTDT if an exspensive... automotive paint YES.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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