I worked on trucks and trailers for forty years-done countless wheel seals. CR seals, hands down are the best. In the 70's we used Stemco with the wear rings on the axle. We even had a fleet that needed seals constantly-until we switched to CR. But there should be no preload on a wheel bearing; about .003 is the spec. I was taught how to 'feel' end play, by setting on my heels and bouncing the wheel assembly with my knees. You will hear a little clunk noise, each time you bounce the wheel, if you do it right. If it had 2 nuts the inner would be loose, with more end play, and when you tightened the outer nut, you would get your'.003'. Later axles came with single nuts with a built-in lock that the socket released when you put it over the nut. This nut had a specific torque, that I do not recall, but I think it is on the face of the nut. I think there are some variations of nut, but we had very few to replace in my last years, due to better design, I guess. We also were taught to set up the dial indicator with the magnetic base, but I could check myself with the 'feel' method and be right on. Another thing that is very important, is CORRECT seal installation-using the correct seal driver, and making sure the seal is bottomed correctly and not mashed in. Mark.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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