On a dry clutch system, the clutch clamps by mechanical spring force. If there is any free play in the clutch pedal AT ALL, the clutch is clamping down with all the force it can possibly make. The only way for a clutch adjustment to make any difference is if the pedal is so far out of adjustment that its holding the clutch partially disengaged. That's zero free play plus several turns of the adjustment past that.
A clutch that "slips" with a properly adjusted pedal is shot. There is no "adjusting the problem away."
Sounds like it's not likely that you're going to get any useful dealer support but that does not mean you should quit trying if the tractor is under warranty. Make their lives hell.
Now is the shuttle shifter a switch on the steering column, or a mechanical lever that mechanically shifts something on the transmission? If it's electrical it's entirely possible that the shuttle shifter is the problem because it would use simple gate logic to determine neutral, allowing you to start.
HOWEVER, that would be an entirely SEPARATE problem from before. Shuttle is all or nothing. Your original problem, you had low but no medium or high.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Lead Substitutes - by Mike Schordine. Lead was oriinally added to gasoline as an upper cylinder lubricant. It lubes the valves and seats. If you rebuild the motor, you could use hardened seats and valves, and unleaded fuel. But if your old tractor runs good, a simple lead substitute added to the gas is a perfectly reasonable solution. And, if you are like me, your tractor is under cover, but it sits outside. So with every temperature change, the humidity in the air collects in the fuel tank, in the form of water.
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