Ok I just saw where you have a manual, thats good. If you are confident everything is by the book, you will now need a helper to turn the PTO slowly while you watch the tying cycle. I encountered this on a 532 some years ago -on the left side- ever since it was brand new, you never knew when it was going to miss. The knots that it tied were not exactly like the pictures in the book, some of the strands were not pulled all the way through, forming a strange little bow. They held, for the most part but it was obvious something was wrong with the mechanism. Got fed up with it after 20 years, took it to the dealer and said do what you have to. They said the knotter assembly needed to be re-stacked. Got it back ($800) still did exactly the same thing. 10 years later I got the bright idea to watch the mechanism while someone turned the flywheel. The problem turned out to be that as the needles were rising, the point of the twine finger (left side) would actually pierce the twine and only lay half of it on the billhook. This could not be detected during operation because by time you realize it mistied, 2-3 bales had gone past and the evidence destroyed; not to mention a foot of twine wound around the billhook. The cure for this is not in the book. The twine fingers, by the book, are a certain distance from the needle slots, when the knotter assembly is in the park position. To properly adjust the left twine finger, you will have to be part way through the tying cycle; the objective is to see when the twine is in position to be grabbed by the twine finger. This is accomplished by shortening the operating rod of the twine finger. If everything else is correct, if the finger hooks the strand, it will tie properly. When the tying cycle is complete and knotter in park, you will notice that the left finger is quite a bit farther ahead than the right one; maybe even partially across the slot. This is the way it has to be. Might consider dressing the back side of the finger, in case the strand has to slide over the back of the finger to get into position. The reason for all this? Well I never actually measured it, but I believe through some manufacturing failure, the knotter shaft is not parallel to the bale chamber; that is why you can rebuild the knotter stack until helle freezes over and nothing changes. The twine fingers are still in the same position they always were. Regarding your worn out grommets, cant you jus turn them 180 degrees? The slots are less than ideal but I dont think they are contributing to your tying problem, unless youre running a fatter twine and its causing fraying problems. Good luck.
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: The Saga of Grandpa's Tractor - by The following saga is from the Tractor Talk Discussion Forum. Someone. The saga starts with the following message: Hey guys I have a decision to make. I know what you all will probably suggest and it will probably agree with me way down inside, but here it is. I have a picture blown up and framed in my "tractor room" of a Farmall M. It was my Grandpa's tractor, of which whom I never got to meet. He froze to death getting this tractor out of the barn to pull a truck out of the ditch before I was born. Anyway my dad and aunt had to sell it at the auction,
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