You can run E15, but it will be hard on the neoprene components. If you can't find straight gasoline, go ahead and run it, but best to drain the carbs when done. Don't just run it out of fuel, but pull the drain plugs, let them drain completely. You might have to remove the silencer cover to get to them, but it is worth it.
Buying premix at the marina is a horrible practice!!! No way they get it right, they use the cheapest bulk oil they can buy, and charge an astronomical price!
The best practice, if you are serious about getting it right, is to have 2 portable 6 gallon tanks. Always start with an empty tank, put in a pint of oil, fill it with 6 gallons of gas (for 50:1 ratio), run it until it is empty, switch to the full tank. That way the ratio stays correct, the gas stays fresh.
An onboard tank is real pain to keep the ratio correct, and they collect water and stale gas. If it has an onboard tank, be a good idea to take it out, clean it, start over with measured gas and oil. If there is room, consider going with the 2 portable tanks instead.
As for oil, always, always, always use either factory Mercury, or factory OMC oil, never use the bargain stuff. It is just nasty! Fouls plugs, smokes, carbons up the piston skirts, just don't!
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Today's Featured Article - Field Modifications (Sins of the Farmer) - by Staff. Picture a new Chevrolet driving down the street without it's grill, right fender and trunk lid. Imagine a crude hole made in the hood to accommodate a new taller air cleaner, the fender wells cut away to make way for larger tires, and half of a sliding glass door used to replace the windshield. Top that off with an old set of '36 Ford headlight shells bolted to the hood. Pretty unlikely for a car... but for a tractor, this is pretty normal. It seems that more often than not they a
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