Hello dketcham welcome to YT! The first question is did it run before all the ignition parts were changed out? If the suggestion old made does not help then from there I will suggest this. You will need a test light for this. Connect the test light lead to a ground, then use the jump wire suggested by old to touch the probe to verify the light works and the lead is grounded well. Now turn on the switch and make sure there is power to the coil. If so, now hold the probe to the terminal that comes out distributor and crank the engine with the starter. You may need a helper to do this. The light should flash on and off quickly as it cranks over. If the light does not light most likely you have the points set so close they are not opening or you have something touching a ground inside the distributor from when the points and condenser were installed. If the light stays on the points are gapped way to wide or they are not connected to the terminal inside the distributor correctly. I will link an Ignition Troubleshooting Guide that another member on here made up quite some time ago. It will require a bit of electrical knowledge and a test meter to fully go through all its required steps.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning Up Your Tractor: The Battery - by Curtis Von Fange. Buried somewhere beneath the sheetmetal, under the gas tank, or stuffed in front of the radiator is the battery. This elusive and neglected component of the tractor is the hardest to get to when it is dead and in need of a jump. But usually, the storage battery is a storehouse of electrical energy waiting to be released a the flick of a switch. A few maintenance tips and periodic cleaning will keep it charged for the duration of its life span. The battery is made up of a number of lead bas
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