Two points, not criticising in any way. I think your wheel settings on the tractor are too wide. The wheel that runs in the furrow should only be the same width away from the front plough body as the width of the furrow. If your plough is set for 14 inch furrows then the distance from the inside of the tyre to the point of the front furrow should only be 14 inches.
If your front furrow is 5 inches deep and your back furrow is only 3 inches deep then the plough is running on its nose and the top link needs to be lengthened until they are both the same furrow depth.
You have done a good job in getting the rust off the plough bodies, that is one of the most important things to do. If the bodies are rusty the plough pushes sideways and can cause the front of the tractor to ride up on the ploughed work. Competition ploughmen here in England will sometimes, plough on a beach or very sandy soil to brighten the plough.
In a perfect world the plough should be level front to back and side to side.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Smells - by Curtis Von Fange. We are continuing our series on learning to talk the language of our tractor. Since we can’t actually talk to our tractors, though some of the older sect of farmers might disagree, we use our five physical senses to observe and construe what our iron age friends are trying to tell us. We have already talked about some of the colors the unit might leave as clues to its well-being. Now we are going to use our noses to diagnose particular smells. ELECTRICAL SMELLS
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