It's possible to get more than one defective part.
Possibly they are coming off the same assembly line incorrectly made or labeled. Even if they are different brands, they may have come from the same manufacturer, just get a different brand box and part number.
The old can type coils are slow sellers now. Often, they get reboxed, relabeled, sold and returned, who knows what the original part number might have been.
General information, a 6v coil, out of circuit, when checked across the primary terminals with an ohm meter will read around 1.5 ohms. A 12v coil will read about 3 ohms.
Also a properly running coil will not be excessively hot. It should be about the same as the surrounding engine components. Generally if it's too hot to touch, it's too hot, something is wrong.
Any coil can and will be damaged by leaving the ignition on not running. They can even get so hot they burst!
I would do some tests on the next new coil, see if it is right before installing it. Check the running voltage across the battery with the engine revved up to governed speed. If it's 6v, it should be around 7-8 volts, if 12v, it should be 14-16 volts. Also be sure the points are properly gapped. Too close will make the coil run hotter than normal.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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