All it needs is the distributor made adjustable and the cam position retard set to near zero. The CMP retard is adjustable on the 5.0, 5.7, 7.4, but it's fixed on the 4.3. V8's the spec is +/-5 degrees, but I've seen 4.3 engines be upwards of 16 degrees stock. What this means is the spark has to reach to the correct tower, wearing on ignition components. Making the distributor adjustable and setting the CMP retard to zero lines the rotor tip up with the correct cap tower, lowering required voltage. Had a customer in the same boat as you until I made this adjustment, the last cap I installed was still on it when it went to the crusher with 280K.
And I echo Hobo, OE or Napa Eichlin only, the rest are junk. Eichlin used to offer a heavy cap with brass towers, those lasted, but can't get them anymore.
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Today's Featured Article - My Ford Golden Jubilee - by Troy Estes. This article is about my '53 Ford Jubilee and a story that starts with taking the tractor to my brother's Starter/Alternator Rebuilding shop for a wiring fix. The generator was shot as well as all the wiring. I dropped off the tractor expecting a transformation from a 6 volt to a 12 volt system utilizing the original generator housing, and a total rewiring of the whole tractor. The front end center pin bushing was worn also so I ask that they replace it if they had time. Well, that’s wha
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