Unless there is some type of contamination, I would not put any type flush in it!
Reason is, once anything is put in there and circulated, there is no way to get it all out, especially if it's trapped inside the cylinders. That could be a considerable amount.
If there is access to the inside of the tank, you can wash it out, wipe it clean. If there is a suction strainer, clean or replace it. If there is a return filter, replace it.
If the system is contaminated with sludge or the wrong oil, about all you can do is replace the oil several times to reduce the contamination. Short of a complete disassembly, removing and purging all the cylinders is the only way to completely clean it up.
If there was a pump failure and metal was shed, it needs a complete tear down and flushing of all components.
Water will eventually evaporate away once the oil is up to temperature and operated for an extended period, and the source is eliminated.
Don't confuse air for water. If the level was run low, it will whip air into the oil and give it a milky appearance. Once the level is restored the air will eventually work it's way out.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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