Have you checked across the manifold ports with a straight edge?
I believe that is a one piece manifold. If there is a difference in the heights of the ports where they mate to the head, there is a danger of cracking the manifold when tightening it down.
If you have a steady hand and a good eye, you 'might' be able to true it up somewhat with a belt sander. But be very careful, trust the straight edge, not what looks good. Go slow and be very careful not to make it worse.
It's hard to have something like that milled as there is no practical way to hold the manifold to the table.
Or clean everything up, get all the rust scale and gasket residue off the head and manifold. Prep all the bolts, studs, nuts so they screw together freely, then go back with a new gasket. Cautiously tighten it evenly. Then retighten it a couple times while it's hot.
Used to could buy muffler sealer in a tube. Not sure it's even made any more. It was useless as muffler sealer but made good high temp gasket sealer. No RTV can handle the exhaust temps.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Lead Substitutes - by Mike Schordine. Lead was oriinally added to gasoline as an upper cylinder lubricant. It lubes the valves and seats. If you rebuild the motor, you could use hardened seats and valves, and unleaded fuel. But if your old tractor runs good, a simple lead substitute added to the gas is a perfectly reasonable solution. And, if you are like me, your tractor is under cover, but it sits outside. So with every temperature change, the humidity in the air collects in the fuel tank, in the form of water.
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