As others have said, this contraption IS right hand threaded on one end, and LEFT hand threaded on the other end. My first guess would be, you are trying to turn the end (that only turns a couple times) the wrong direction. Since the end that's giving you trouble appears to be screwed all the way in as far as it can possibly go, I'm thinking this is your problem. The tube is likely only threaded inside 8 or 10 threads (or what ever). Your eyelet was/is screwed in so far that the far end (inside) goes beyond the actual tube threads. So, the eyelet went deep enough into the tube, that it has exposed threads internally of the tube. These threads have been exposed (internally) and likely all rusted up. To help free it up, take threaded eyelet piece entirely out of the other end, stand the top link up with the missing eyelet end up, and dump some penetrating oil of your choice down the middle of top link to the inside rusted threads at the other end. Then place back in vice and continue your efforts to free it up.
Note, that flat piece on the end that you are not having trouble with, just acts as a set nut once this adjustable top link is set on adjustment. It really should be screwed all the way out to the eyelet end when not in use as a set nut for the adjustment.
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let�s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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