Are you working with a heating contractor to size up the system, or is this a Do-It-Yourself design by eyeball? Will the shed stay heated all winter (steady state heating) or only heated on the days you will work in it (lots of cold start-ups)?
Insulation under and around the heated concrete slab will save a lot of heat, more than insulating the rest of the building. If starting from a cold floor, allow two days or more to warm up a frozen slab. At start-up the cold slab will quickly suck the heat out of the hot water within the first few feet and you will just be circulating cold water through the remainder of that loop. You can actually trace the loops by watching which parts of the floor warm up first and then follow the loop as the rest of the floor slowly warms up. Multiple short loops tied into common headers will give you faster warm-up times as more concrete is exposed to the hottest water.
Check the capacity of your boiler against the new heat load from your shed. An un-insulated shed could draw 2 to 8 times or more heat as much heat as the same square footage in the insulated house. On the coldest days you may have to shut down part of the shed to maintain enough heat for the house.
There is always that trade-off of how much usable shop time do you loose preparing extra wood while the weather and the shop are comfortable, so you can work in the shop when the weather is miserable.
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Today's Featured Article - The Ferguson System Principal An implement cutting through the soil at a certain depth say eight inches requires a certain force or draft to pull it. Obviously that draft will increase if the implement runs deeper than eight inches, and decrease if it runs shallower. Why not use that draft fact to control the depth of work automatically? The draft forces are
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