Pumps are the same as a 460 u. A piggy back set up. One is 12-17 GPM and the other is 3-4 GPM all bolted together. I believe though the small one on the end does the three point though. One filter is stock by the brakes. The tube that feeds the pump is notorious for leaks at the seal in the middle if not positioned correctly. Is the oil foamy? If so air leak. If you can find a 3000lb gauge and plumb it in on the ports for the pump by the clutch. It should be around 1800. Those tractors hydraulics are noisy until the oil is warmed up from past experience in the winter. From the wording this tractor has only one pump? I would have thought with a back hoe it would have a front pump or pto one also. If some one changed the main to a 17 it will cavitate because the factory filter is too small. There is a chance the flow control screen might be getting plugged. Does it sound like it is on high pressure? If so the control valves may be (to set double acting to single) may be in between the settings. So many things to look at. Too heavy of oil can cause problems . It should be Hytran which is a 20 weight. Filter, is it one oval filter or two doughnuts? If it is the two small round ones change it to the oval. Some thoughts.
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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