As others have said, ventilating the attic and blowing in additional insulation over the ceiling are likely to give you the greatest benefit. That bubble wrap stuff isn't doing much for you.
How you ventilate the attic will depend on whether or not you have overhanging eaves and soffits. If you do, install soffit vents every other or every third truss. If the eaves don't overhang, you'll have to add gable vents to let air in. To let the hot air out, I like to use ridge vents along the peak, which will require you to tear off the cap shingles, cut an opening in the peak of the roof, install the vents and install new cap shingles. Be careful not to cut your trusses when you cut the opening.
You can add gable vents and even gable fans to give more ventilation, but I've found soffit vents and ridge vents alone do a good job on my 30x40 building. Be careful to not block the soffits when you blown in insulation. And of course soffit vents won't work if blocking between the trusses blocks the soffits.
It sounds like you have pretty good insulation in the walls. I'd look for possible leaks you can block off, such as between the girders the trusses rest on. If you have an un-insulated overhead door, you might want to replace it with one that's insulated. Sliding doors are notoriously leaky, but you can't easily replace a sliding door with an overhead door.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Allis-Chalmers Model G - by Staff. The first Allis-Chalmers Model G was produced in 1948 in Gasden, Alabama, and was designed for vegetable gardeners, small farms and landscape businesses. It is a small compact tractor that came with a complete line of implements especially tailored for its unique design. It featured a rear-mounted Continental N62 four-cylinder engine with a 2-3/8 x 3-1/2 inch bore and stroke. The rear-mounted engine provided traction for the rear wheels while at the same time gave the tractor operator a gre
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