Diagnosis first. You have started that with the things you can see, but changing those can both disguise or create added issues. 12v to the distributor is the first issue to be solved. 90% of the time a 4 cylinder engine is shut off it stops with the pistons about 1/2 way up. The points are normally closed at this location so 12v at the distributor is wrong. When the points are closed there should be no voltage at the distributor terminal, and opening the points with a plastic fast food knife should then provide 12v there. Replacing and gapping the points correctly would be my step #1. The other mentioned parts should be replaced one at a time to be sure they work. Take off one plug wire at a time and replace it. Take images to be certain you are replicating the way it was. Spark plugs last. They don't all quit at once, and though needing to be replaced, are not causing the starting issue. If the voltage at the coil input from the key is less than battery volts when the key is on and the (New) points are closed, the ignition switch may also be at fault. Open circuits will read full voltage even if they are actually not capable of delivering the needed amps when put in use by the load. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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