Diagnosis first. You have started that with the things you can see, but changing those can both disguise or create added issues. 12v to the distributor is the first issue to be solved. 90% of the time a 4 cylinder engine is shut off it stops with the pistons about 1/2 way up. The points are normally closed at this location so 12v at the distributor is wrong. When the points are closed there should be no voltage at the distributor terminal, and opening the points with a plastic fast food knife should then provide 12v there. Replacing and gapping the points correctly would be my step #1. The other mentioned parts should be replaced one at a time to be sure they work. Take off one plug wire at a time and replace it. Take images to be certain you are replicating the way it was. Spark plugs last. They don't all quit at once, and though needing to be replaced, are not causing the starting issue. If the voltage at the coil input from the key is less than battery volts when the key is on and the (New) points are closed, the ignition switch may also be at fault. Open circuits will read full voltage even if they are actually not capable of delivering the needed amps when put in use by the load. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Engine Valves - Some Helpful Information - by Staff. Intake - On the intake stroke the piston moves doward, sucking in carburized fuel through the open intake valve. Exhaust valve is closed. Compression - With both the intake and exhaust valves closed, the pistons upward stroke compresses or squeezes the fuel into the combustion chamber. Firing - Ignited by the spark, the compressed fuel explodes and forces the piston downward on its power stroke. Intake and exhaust valves are closed. Exhaust valves and seats are exp
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