Also ball joints can and often do pop on GMs when turning or going through a small dip. First check them for wear or slack. This is done with them being in the position with the least amount of pressure against them or ..free.. position. To get to that position you need to jack the tire off the ground by placing a floor jack under the lower control arm ..A frame.. Raise the tire off the ground just enough to get a bar under it and pry up and down. Also place a short 2x4 in front of the tire and pry up on the the center of the tire and move the bar where you are grabbing it side to side to check for sideways play, I am talking about a bar at least 2 and a half foot long. Pull in and out on the top of the tire with all the heave you can muster, feeling for slack in the top ball joint or the top control arm bushings. All this is best done with an assistant watching for movement where the ball joint and steering knuckle meet. Lastly grease it while you have it in the free position, this sometimes cures the popping. Please have something like a jack stand or cribbing as a safety precaution if the jack fails. Just jacking the truck up with the front cross member or front bumper does not place the ball joints in the free position because they are still containing the coil spring. Sorry if you already knew all this. Also sometimes the rivets to the frame come loose on the front cross member that is basically below the radiator, I hope the frame is still configured like this. Have someone gently steer the wheel back and forth while you watch the cross member and frame joining area, particularly near where the steering box mounts. See if there is any movement between the two to indicate a loose rivet. If you find it loose a quick weld bead is the best fix.
This post was edited by used red MN on 10/19/2021 at 12:10 pm.
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